MCF Rare Wine
Domaine Mayard: The Châteauneuf for...'Maillard'
The maillard reaction in cooking refers to chemical reaction where amino acids and sugars reach a certain heat threshold and a beautiful browning occurs that results in new, umami rich compounds being created.
It happens on everything from cookies, to coffee, to marshmallows, but when people talk about maillard, they're mostly talking about the wonderful brown crust that happens on a perfectly seared piece of meat.
Hamburgers, steaks, chicken thighs, yes, but when I think of the perfect example of maillard...the image that pops into my head is some kind of pork.
Whether it's a double cut pork chop, or a port sausage patty, and I don't know scientifically why, but there's just something about the way pork so perfectly browns and crusts up, that it represents the paradigm of this most awesomely flavor-enhancing phenomenon.
When introduced, somewhat recently, to the Châteauneuf du Pape of Domaine Mayard, the first emotion that flooded my brain was just how incredibly elegant, balanced, nuanced and just flat out delicious it was...
...Châteauneuf made in the style I so dearly love from this famous appellation.
The second thing I thought was, 'man, such an elegantly nimble, finessed expression of Châteauneuf is, more than any other dish, MADE for a perfectly seared piece of pork...'
This tiny estate is helmed by the brothers Mayard, Arthur and Hugo, and this is just their second vintage. When the family's old holdings were diced up among the new generation, they took over their various plots over 10ha, and set out to make wines in the new 'modern traditional' way - organic/regenerative agriculture, long macerations, native yeasts, concrete aging, minimal sulphur and, most importantly, a focus on balance, nuance and gastronomical versatility.
It's a classic Châteauneuf blend of Grenache, Mourvèdre and Cinsault and, again, is one of the most beautifully restrained, aromatic, supple, ethereal and subtly complex wines from Chateauneuf (that doesn't say 'Rayas' on the label) that you'll ever encounter.
Is it Rayas?
No...
...well, not yet...but these are two incredibly talented young vignerons we're dealing with...so...
...give them some time.
In the meantime...a little Mayard and maillard needs to happen in your life...
...like, really soon...
DOMAINE MAYARD
Châteauneuf du Pape 2022
You may order by calling 212.255.8870.
Matt Franco
MCF Rare Wine, Ltd
249 West 13th Street NYC 10011
212.255.8870
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