MCF Rare Wine
Some Fabulous Cool-Weather Whites
The cool weather white isn't a category that's talked about all that much IMO.
The reason might be that it's just one of those kooky categories that I think about because I concocted it in my mind sometime in the past, yes...
...but, as much as I'd love to take credit for such a thing, I don't think that it's the case.
I think that there's very much a place in our collective wine worldviews for wines that are very well suited to the cooler months, and the comforting foods we associate with them, that aren't red...
...whites that have a bit more texture, or development, or savoriness, or off-dryness, or oxidative elements...
...sometimes even all of the above...
I think you know what I mean...
So the other day, when consuming a pasta I threw together of fennel sausage and a creamy, cheesy sauce with plenty of black pepper (the kids love such dishes), even though I was drinking a red which went perfectly well with it, all I could think about what a richer white with plenty of secondary depth...
...and the idea to highlight such wines came to me...
...so here we go!
CHÂTEAU BOUSCASSÉ Les Jardins Philosophiques 2018 - if you haven't been reading this newsletter for a while, you may not have heard of Chateau Bouscassé, or the Pacherenc du Vic Bilh appellation. You may have not heard of Petit Courbu or Petit Manseng. You might not have much experience with enjoying mature white wines that have 6 years of age on them, and only cost $21. No matter, though, because with this one glorious wine, you'll get to experience all of the above. Chateau Bouscasse is the Brumont family's original estate in SW France and this Jardins Philosophique 2018 is a classic example of the estate's brilliant pedigree. It perfectly blends the zippy, highly aromatic nature of Courbu and Manseng, with the richer, more textured elements of a white with a bit of age on it. It's so deliciously complete and is a TON of wine for the money.
CAVALLOTTO Bianco Pinot Nero Pinner - it's probably the most straightforward of the wines on this list in terms of its overall personality, but it's no less compelling in any way. The Pinner is made entirely of Pinot Noir, that was grown in the Barolo zone, and was vinified into a linear, textured, mineral, gorgeously fragrant and nuanced white wine. This has always been both one of Italy's unsung whites and also a wine we've loved here since day one. The slight whisper of lovely, pink Pinot Noir berry fruit that envelopes the firmly mineral core is what really puts a smile on your face.
CASCINA delle ROSE Bianco Mun Crü 2023 - the small, but mighty Barbaresco estate of Cascina delle Rose has been slowly gaining steam as a producer of ultra-classic, value-driven Barbaresco, Barbera and Dolcetto, but my first encounter with their Bianco Mun Crü may have made the most immediate impression of any of their wines. This is exactly the kind of wine I was speaking to above - it's an amazingly complex, textured and fragrant expression of the Arneis grape, and shows an incredible level of advanced depth and highly aromatic nuance, which it mixes perfectly with a savory/nutty/earthy finish. One of the coolest white wines we have in stock right now.
CABEÇAS do REGUENGO Respiro Branco Zizi 2022 - The Branco Zizi is a tightly-wound, Chablis-esque field blend white from Cabeças do Reguengo in Portugal's Alentejo. The beautiful tension here is up-front and extremely alluring, and is complimented by highly-textured white fruit and flowery/nutty/honeyed nuances that clear the way for an electric, chiseled, stony finish that keeps you coming back for another sip. Everything about this wine is gorgeous, even the label.
DOMAINE SAINT PIERRE Arbois Blanc Les Dalles 2020 - Domaine Saint Pierre is, hands-down, one of our favorite producers in the Jura, but due to a number of extremely challenging vintages for proprietor Fabrice Dodane, we've gotten so little of his wines of the last handful of years that I've not really been able to promote them here in this newsletter. That said, I couldn't take myself seriously if I didn't mention one of his whites in a newsletter on this topic. His Les Dalles is made of the local Melon a Queue Rouge grape, which is a biotype of Chardonnay, and is such a perfect snapshot of Fabrice's non-oxidative whites, which tend to be rather reductive in nature when young. While still rather tightly wound, this wine teases at all manner of floral, savory, nutty, salty complexity to go along with its driving acidity and focus. It is perfectly delicious now, but in another year or two you'll really understand why we so love these wines.
LE CAVEAU de BACCHUS (Lucien Aviet) Savagnin 2016 - you couldn't expect me to do this list and NOT have an oxidative wine on the list...I mean, could you? Lucien Aviet is one of the true practitioners of the Jura's old-school and, if you want to know what proper sous voile whites from Arbois taste like, look no further than this knockout Savagnin. It's deeply savory, nutty, cheesy and briny, and scratches every oxidative itch you may have, while also retaining a fabulously energetic acidic core that keeps your palate alive. Oh, and being a 2016, all of that wonderful savory complexity is dialed up even more.
You may order by calling 212.255.8870.
Matt Franco
MCF Rare Wine, Ltd
249 West 13th Street NYC 10011
212.255.8870
Looking for a wine you loved from a past newsletter or a favorite you can't find anywhere? Email Raphael at raphael@mcf-rarewine.com, and we'll do our best to find it for you!
