MCF Rare Wine
Yes, This is a True Burgundian Gem
A gem.
It's funny how when you think about a term, you sometimes realize that you use it a lot in specific instances.
Typing the word 'gem' right now, I'm realizing that I say it quite often. I mean, I always knew that I say it often, but, in acknowledging that, it forces me to think about what exactly it is that I mean when I use it to describe a certain wine or producer.
Generally, I mean that said wine/producer is some combination of these elements -
- undiscovered/overlooked/underappreciated
- offers quality that far exceeds its price tag
- utilizes grapes or terroirs that people have never heard of, or choose to look past
- because of any of the three previous bullet points, there are multiple vintages of the wine available, often at original pricing
In the truest sense of the word, a gem is all of the above.
Today's wines from Domaine du Couvent are all of the above...true gems.
It's almost like a story out of a movie.
Philippe Chéron and his son, Paul, have longstanding family ties to the Côte de Nuits, and especially to Gevrey. They represent the third and fourth generation of vignerons in Chéron family. Philippe had been at the helm of the Misset-Chéron estate for a decade, while Paul worked at the legendary Ghislaine Barthod estate during his agronomy studies in Beaune.
When presented with the opportunity to combine Misset-Chéron with family holdings in another Gevrey estate, the former Domaine des Varoilles, Domaine du Couvent was born.
(Born with a rolodex of legendary climats to its name, no less...including numerous monopoles...)
Having literally just tasted these wines, my excitement about their gem-ness is...exciting...
Here you have some utterly classic expressions of some of the most famous soil on planet earth...
...and multiple vintages of them...
...and they're priced almost unbelievably fairly...
(Lucky us)
This represents a very unique opportunity to taste some fabulous wines, from famous 1er Cru sites, and with the added benefit of being able to compare and contrast vintages...
...so take my word for it...
DOMAINE du COUVENT
VOSNE-ROMANÉE 1er Cru LES BARREAUX (2017, 2019, 2022) - This is a flat our lovely expression of classic Vosne, and we have three fabulous vintages to choose from here, each very different from the other. The signature exotic aromas and densely-packed elegance are all there. The 2017 is so '2017' in its chiseled structure, darkly stony and utterly classic structure. On the flip side, the 2022 is dark, generous, supple and so irresistibly friendly, that's hard to stop drinking. The 2019 (a favorite vintage of mine) combines the tightly focused structure of the '17 with the generosity of the 2022, but, in that oh-so 2019 way, it's brighter, more lifted and more transparent. Talk about a chance to experience not just village/vineyard typicity, but vintage typicity, too.
GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN 1er Cru LA ROMANÉE (2020, 2022)- it never ceases to amaze me how, after 20+ years in this business, I can still meet a 1er Cru vineyard from a major village that I've never heard of. Yet it happened again today in this wonderfully vigorous monopole of La Romanée. This marl-y, limestone-y plot is situated on the western end of Gevrey, just below the forest. It's an incredibly linear, structured and (charmingly) extra-surly expression of Gevrey that I, personally, was really taken with. The 2022 is a true outlier in this friendliest of vintages - it's dark, racy, stony and so focused around its tightly wound backbone. I can't recall that I've had a Gevrey with this much...determination to it. However, one taste of the 2020, a similar vintage with two extra years under its belt, and you'll see just why I'm so excited by it...the firm backbone is beginning to loosen and it's allowed the sublimely elegant dark Gevrey fruit and savory minerals to emerge. There's a lot to look forward to in both of these wines.
GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN CLOS du MEIX des OUCHES 2020 - another of their monopoles, this village level lieu dit is comprised of gravel over deep clay/limestone, yielding an outstandingly complete wine that covers the entire spectrum of Gevrey. It's a dark, generous, dense, mineral, savory and just plain enchanting glass of Burgundy. I had to include this one, just based off of the value and utter drinkability it offers...just because I liked it so much.
You may order by calling 212.255.8870.
Matt Franco
MCF Rare Wine, Ltd
249 West 13th Street NYC 10011
212.255.8870
Looking for a wine you loved from a past newsletter or a favorite you can't find anywhere? Email Raphael at raphael@mcf-rarewine.com, and we'll do our best to find it for you!
